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Men’s Dress Shirt Styles – How To Choose the Perfect Collar, Placket, Cuff & Fit



Learn more in our written Dress Shirt Style Guide here:

You can check out the accessories I’m wearing here:
Tie:
Pocket square:

With the recent popularity of made to measure shirts and custom shirts online and offline, you get lots of options. Now that can be a blessing or a curse, depending on what you need and what you don’t.

Fit
Classic Fit
The primary goal of the classic fit is comfort so you’ll have more space in the chest, you’ll have wider sleeves. Overall, it’s a roomier cut with excess fabric. The idea is that it gives you mobility.

Slim Fit
Basically, everything on the shirt is slimmed down. The torso is slimmed down sometimes with the use of darts in the back. The chest is smaller, the shoulder width is smaller, and oftentimes, also the sleeves are much slimmer.

Modern Fit / Contemporary Fit
This is somewhere between the classic fit and the slim fit. It usually features a slightly tapered silhouette, sometimes has darts, sometimes not. It is an attractive look but it doesn’t compromise comfort and mobility.

Super Skinny Fit
This just means that everything is tight. The problem is that it’s so tight that you easily get wrinkles all over the place.

Placket

Traditional front placket which is an additional piece of fabric strip that is sewn onto the top. It creates great symmetry, it’s therefore very popular for a classic shirt.

French placket. Unlike the Amercian placket, it’s simply a flat, smooth edge that’s folded over and sewn.

3/4 placket which means the placket doesn’t go all the way down and it’s more like a polo shirt, just very deep.

fly front placket. It’s called that way because the buttons are hidden with an additional piece of fabric and personally, I don’t like it at all.

Collar

Spread Collar. It has a certain spread and it’s used for dress shirts and casual shirts alike. It works with or without a tie and it’s quite versatile.

Button down collar. It’s particularly popular for the oxford cloth button down collar shirt.

Under button-down collars. There’s simply a button placed underneath the collar so it’s invisible.

Classic collar. Not too spread, tips are not too long but not too short.

Smaller collars have become very popular but most of the time, they’re not very flattering especially if you wear a tie or a bow tie, it simply looks like a child collar.

Detachable wing collar. For evening wear such as white tie tailcoat and tuxedo, men would traditionally wear this one.

Mao collar. A short, stand-up collar. It’s very easy to tailor and it’s sometimes worn in combination with the Nehru jacket.

Club collar. It has rounded ends so you’re not going to have a collar tip but they’re just rounded.

Medium spread collar. It’s basically not classic but not too spread. It’s kind of in between.

Extreme cutaway collar. It’s just cut away so far, you cannot really wear a neckwear that looks flattering.

Shirt Cuff

-French cuffs or double cuffs.
-James Bond cuff
– straight cut cuffs, or slightly angled ones, or rounded ones

Hem
Most traditional shirts have a hem that is longer in the front and at the back and cut up in the middle so you don’t have excess bunching of fabric.

Yoke
Traditionally, you can find a so-called split yoke in the back which originally was there to compensate for sloping shoulders.

Pleats
In terms of pleats, traditional shirts oftentimes feature a center pleat down the middle. It’s like a box pleat that gives you more room.
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5 replies
  1. Sean Foreshew
    Sean Foreshew says:

    Raphael, I know you own your own business, and are obviously extremely busy. But I would love to see more videos like this, breaking down these sorts of things for all the general suiting items. Your knowledge of the history and function is always fascinating.

    Keen to see more.
    Regards,

    Reply

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